Journey: Unguimuiza – Césis – Cécili Nature Trail – Ligatne – Secret Soviet Bunker – Sigulda – Gūtmanala – Turaida
Wow have we packed a lot into today! At 8am I was up and out running around the grounds of Unguimuiza Manor and found a tree named after famous chemist Paul Walden – having pulled a muscle I wasn’t enjoying the run much but reminded myself how how lucky I am to see these extra treats at such a quiet and reflective time of day.
We then drove in to Césis and took the pups for a wander around the castle grounds before heading to a lovely nature trail complete with paddling area, swing, cool cast iron BBQ and red sandstone rocks. The whole area we were in today is part of the Gauja National Park and you are spoilt for trail options, there is so much to see and do in such a small area.
After lunch we went to the charming village of Ligatne, where locals have carved caves into the cliff edge. It takes about 3 months to dig your own out depending on size but the longest is 54 metres with several rooms off it. A lady was selling homemade syrups and socks outside of hers and I had a very unusual pinecone lollypop – tasted like a cough sweet but not sweet.
We couldn’t resist the Secret Soviet Bunker, it’s only been open since 2003 having been top secret before then. Latvias government were more cautious than Estonia/Lithuania who opened theirs as soon as they declared independance and as a result their bunkers have largely been turned into other things whereas this one is as it was created in the 70s.
It’s such an odd time capsule, and our guide was very funny making jokes about Brezhnev eyebrows, and the no alcohol campaign poster which failed because they used the wrong type of glass. It really surprised me that coastal areas we are planning to visit, she was only allowed to visit in 2003 as before then you had to request a permit which was often denied. I’m also one of the few people to have used a bunker toilet and done a handstand…even if I did fall out and bang my knee on the wall (got a lovely bruise souvenir).
They had masses of gas masks (made in USSR not China… someone asked 😂) that they were expecting to give to locals when America nuked them but obviously they were never needed so you can buy for €10 should you wish…we rocked a selfie but are hoping we don’t need a mask.
Back on the ground we visited Sigulda – the castle was largely wrapped in scaffolding (as so many iconic buildings we have visited in Europe are), but we enjoyed a potter about. The town’s emblem is the walking stick and so you find giant bright ones in the parks. As a more unusual walk you can walk their bobsleigh track! It gives a great view and if you can plan to go on a Sat/Sun you can even have a go. I would have loved that, but it was still crazy to think of them riding the course.
Our bedtime walk was at Gūtmanala, which is a gorgeous sacred cave with name/date carvings dating back to as early as 1667! That is some seriously old graffiti!! It was fascinating to see shield emblems and detailed plaques from 17 and 18th century still intact, and in order to protect them it’s now illegal to engrave there as people were engraving over these historic pieces.
We have parked just 3 minutes away ready for another castle visit in the morning…at some point we will make it to Riga but definitely enjoying the sights along the way.
SofaWolves 