Day 104 – Arrive with empty belly

Journey: Malbork – Gdansk

When visiting the world’s largest medieval castle it would really help if I had a greater interest in history. I know it sounds awful but as impressive as it was (and huge! and skillfully restored), after 45minutes of audio commentary whilst pottering around, I’d reached my limit. I switched it off and continued wandering, just happy to look around: observing if not learning.

It was then on to Gdansk. When I’d first mooted the idea, Mark had dismissed it as a port city but both Mia and a lovely German camper couple had said it’s a pearl not to be missed. They weren’t wrong! Mia thank you again for all your tips and recommendations.

It is definitely a city to visit on an empty tummy, the cafe and restaurant scene is amazing. It’s a foodie paradise. We managed to squeeze the van into a space right in the centre, next to the Amber Alter and 1 min walk from Bunkier nightclub…more of that later. First stop Pyra Bar for some delicious polish potato stodge. Mark went straight into dessert mode and had potato pancakes, apple and cream, I went slightly healthier with a potato, courgette, olive slice. This place is all about the humble potato and with two scrumptious meals and a drink for under £10 who can complain.

Wherever you look there is stunning architecture and a buzzing atmosphere. Tourists are milling around the old town, amber stalls are everywhere, great buskers, ice cream every few yards. We were going to follow a self walking guide but were ultimately just happy to wander and get lost in the maze of little lanes. I’d made a note of all the key attractions (fahrenheit clock, 3 hags, 3 boars, churches galore, river, Neptune and Four Quarters fountains) so nothing was missed but as it’s so compact, you will likely walk the same streets several times and spot different things each time.

On Mariacka we had iced coffee and a slice of cake at Drukarnia Cafe…sadly their ice machine had just broke and the cake was stale (rooky mistake, never go for the last slice as you don’t know how long it’s been there). The pups got a fuss though and staff were friendly. Think we just caught them at a bad time.

For Ernest the highlight was Four Quarter Fountain, for a dog who hates a bath he absolutely adores water fountains and is hilarious (I’ve shared the video of him playing on their insta @sofawolves).

After more wandering, we found the new town, ate an ice cream and then I braved clothes shopping. One shop was all Mark and I could cope with, and I still sought advice from friends before buying but I now have a few staples that actually fit and don’t have pulls/holes. It’s been ages since I bought new, as generally only buy secondhand but it was nice to feel pretty for a change

New gladrags on, we went out for yet more food…it’s a wonder I still fit in them 😂 Manna 68 is a great veggie/vegan restaurant that’s always busy but well worth the wait. Mark had the burger and I had the burrito…they also did cake but I was stuffed.

As a surprise for Mark I suggested a night out clubbing…his face needed convincing but he went along with it. Bunkier Club is right in the centre in one of the last remaining bunkers. Staggered over 6 floors each with unique decor, on a Sunday night at 10pm we had the place to ourselves so had fun exploring, a mini bop and some handstand practice.. I even nipped into the gents loos to see the lady maniquin urinals. After 1 drink we conceded it was a dead duck and went home…still we sort of went clubbing 😂

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