Day 43 – Stunning views and Michelin stars

Journey: Grenaa Dog Park – Mols Bjerge National Park – Hovegaden – Ebeltoft – Agri Bavnehog Parkering – Poskaer Stenhus – Kalo Castle ruins – Lisbjerg

After a lovely walk around the dog park we drove through Mols Bjerge National Park in search of coffee. I’d googled best cafe in Ebeltoft and found one that looked lovely but as I turned right instead of left at the roundabout Mark was moaning I was going the wrong way and it turned out the cafe I’d picked was 3 miles from Ebeltoft…and closed πŸ™ˆ

Still Hovegaden was gorgeous and there was a Michelin star restaurant next door so I asked if they accepted dogs and took them there instead. Sat out on the terrace we ordered coffee and I popped my pinkie finger out (as mother taught me πŸ˜‚), Mabel wandered off to sit at another table, Jasper fell asleep and Ernest surveyed the lawns. It was about half way through my coffee I realised half the sticky bra I was wearing had come unstuck and was dangling out the bottom of my top leaving my left breast free – obviously had to happen at a posh place πŸ™ˆ After discreetly sorting my bra, we paid Β£12 for a single caffetirre πŸ˜± and went for a walk on the beach thankful we hadn’t ordered cake (the main meals were upwards of Β£80!). The beach was lovely, the waters crystal clear and quite warm. Ernest loves the water now, and even Mabel got her ankles wet.

We then went on to Ebeltoft which has a huge frigate ship called the Jutland which you can climb the rigging and mast of (we didn’t), and a brilliant glass museum. I’m not usually fussed by glass art but this was incredible. There were three exhibitions. The first by a controversial American artist who did political/satirical life size pieces you would never guess we’re in glass, the second was intricate glass beadwork covering everyday objects and beaded flowers and the third was there permanent collection which had a mesmerising immersive piece called Cosmic Space made up of painted glass. You also have the opportunity to make a little bead plate design which will be added to a large collective art piece.

I adored the Cosmic Space and instinctively lay down in it. Mark captured several reflections of me in the floor. One word of caution though – if you take a standing selfie looking down it’s easy to forgot you are on a glass floor, which means you get an up the top view of the girls minus the stupid sticky bra you opted to remove earlier – the resulting photo was deemed FB inappropriate πŸ™ˆ

From there to the wilds of Agri Bavnehog Parkering. To compliment his posh morning water Ernest was desperate to eat dried horse poo and Mabel obviously rolled in it. The 360Β° views from the top were well worth the climb and the pups arrived back at the van tired but happy. We then drove past the Poskaer Stenhus standing stones on to Kalo Castle, arriving just as a classic car and bike show were gathering. Mark was tempted to drive on but the castle ruins are one of the highlights of the area so I squeezed the van in and prayed we could get it out later.

Like a lot of Denmark’s best attractions it involved a hike as it’s situated on a promintary, fortunately they also had an ice cream stall at the start for sustenance. Modern steps had been added to the ruins so you could see the spectacular views from the top. I did the obligatory handstand and wished I could do the splits and then we walked back to the car park and hundreds of people in a now heaving show. Sadly no Manx bikes but lots of gorgeous cars. There were several of my favourite e type jags but the one that style my heart was a cute bubble car called Lilly.

Tonight we are staying in a proper campsite doing our chores. The bed linen has been washed so perhaps no sand for 24hrs (wishful thinking). The pups were outside on their long leads which works well until I left them unattended to do the dishes and popped my head out only to see Ernest had upturned both chairs and the table in order to get Marks empty yoghet pot. He is such a cute mischief…love all 21 kilos of him (Mark is praying he stops growing soon πŸ˜‚)

Day 42 – Cant always trust Google

Journey: Jyske Aas – Aalborg – Hobro Fyrkat Viking Centre – Fjellerup – Meilgaardvej – FyrtΓ₯rn Gjerrild – GrenΓ₯ Hundeskov

So last night I drove us to a little sculpture walk called Jyske Aas it scored 3⭐ on Google so I didn’t have huge hopes but when arrived it was an overgrown spiral that took a minute to walk…with a free carpark…it did the job but not my best find… Mark was not impressed.

I was in slug mode this morning so it was gone 10 before we left for Aalborg. That despite the fact that the dogs had brought so much sand into the van and evidently into our bed that it was like sleeping on an emery board…I can sleep anywhere πŸ˜‚

Aarlborg is another nice potter about town with a few hidden gems. The highlight is Kindepark which has singing trees. When a singer comes to perform they plant a tree and a medley of their songs can be played under the tree. There is a really eclectic mix from Sir Cliff Richard who started it in 2012 to Kiss, Beyonce, and classical music. It’s a great idea and the only one in the world. 

We walked the streets for miles soaking it all in, the opera house is very striking, each did our exercises on a public gym, had brunch at a cafe and found a quirky ceramics place hidden down a traditional residential street. I then spotted a wonderful comic store and got lost for a while looking at all the graphic novels. Meanwhile Mark was nattering to the owner who was so lovely and friendly. Rather than head inland to Viborg (as suggested by Google), having heard we loved the beaches he suggested we go to the east coast which was less touristy and very pretty…and so we did!

First stop was the Viking Centre, Mark had spotted a photo and knew nothing about it but it was only 10minutes of our rough route so off we went. It was great fun, a really interesting site, we met some friendly sheep, dressed up as Viking farmers, pretended to be blacksmiths and read some history. So odd this wasn’t listed as a main attraction on Google, it deserves to be.

From there it was back to the coast, we drove east to Fjellerup and shock horror Mabel refused a beach walk! She was too comfy on the sofa or else didn’t realise and so I took the boys while Mark made dinner. It’s actually very rare we get half an hour alone from each other…more often than not I’m his moany shadow that keeps pestering for food.

Mark had hoped to find somewhere we could camp in Fjellerup but no such luck. I actually love driving at dusk as it’s beautiful light and the roads are quiet and had thus found two extra sites to visit. The first was a lighthouse with stunning views – said the multiple 4⭐ reviews from 10 months ago. I persuaded him it was only 30 minutes extra and would be worth it. We opted for the wiggly longer route and stumbled upon a stunning castle called Meilgaardvej (not on Google) before driving through lots of Xmas tree plantations, woodland and into what seemed like endless prairie land. The lighthouse no doubt had breathtaking views…but was locked and seemingly in someone’s private back garden and our motorhome took up the entire dirt track road which I’d had to reverse up…it was pretty though. Whoops sorry Mark πŸ˜‚πŸ™ˆ

I tried to make it up to him with my camping spot suggestion – a dog park. Tomorrow’s walk is sorted a mere metre from the van. On arrival he said it looked odd and is dubious… Fingers crossed it looks better in the light…or at least the dogs love it πŸ€ž

Today’s lesson – Google doesn’t know everything, speak to locals they are friendly and take you off the beaten track πŸ˜„

Day 41 – Beach, beach and more beach

Journey: Rubjerg Knude Fyr – Hirtshals – Grenen – Skagen – Rabjerg Mile – Saebe

Wow what a day, we were in beach heaven and the dogs are shattered β€οΈπŸΎβ˜€οΈ Rubjerg Knude Fyr is also known as the disappearing lighthouse as it’s surrounded by huge moving dunes. Ernest and Jasper climbed the lighthouse with me and the view from the top was amazing! Mabel was like the Queen of the sands and just loved it.

From there we drove through Hirtshals to Grenen. We walked along the beach to the point where the North sea meets the Baltic sea – you could see a clear difference with the North sea being much choppier. We then realised we could have taken a funky tractor bus but to be fair enjoyed the walk, saw more bunkers, Mabel rolled in the sand at least 10 more times and sniffed out a beetle.

In Skagen we saw a replica old lighthouse, then drove to yet more sand in the form of Rubjerg Mile….massive sand dunes isolated from the sea. The scale was incredible and we walked up and down for ages. Ernest learnt to dig…though got confused when the holes he dug at the bottom of slopes kept getting filled in πŸ˜‚ He also covered us all in sand. I’d stupidly got my dates mixed up and spent all morning celebrating his half birthday but later realised he is 6 months old on the 26th not 23rd… So he will be spoilt again on Wednesday πŸ™ˆ

From Rubjerg Mile we have driven south again on the east coast to Saebe for a special Danish celebration that will get is own separate post as we are waiting for it to commence…

Day 41 Part 2 – Sankt Hans Aften

What a special treat, we realised a few days ago that the Danish celebrate midsummers day on the 23rd which is St John’s Eve – it’s notionally Christian but has pagan traditions hense a witch is burnt on a bonfire and the whole community comes together to celebrate midsummer by singing a famous poem. You typically have a special meal with friends and family beforehand and thus there were BBQs, firepits to melt marshmallows, waffles and our option ice cream.

Each town had there own bonfire and as ours was one of the last lit we could see others burning down the coast line. It really felt like the whole town was out, the brass band started playing as the bonfire was lit and people started singing. Really magical end to our day

Day 40 – Beaches, Bunkers and Beacons

Journey: Snedsted – Stenbjerg – Thy National Park – Vorupor – Thagaards Plantage – Klitmoller (Cold Hawaii) – Hanstholm – The bunker from the Olsen beach – Kaas – lay-by near Rubjerg Knude Fyr

I knew the pups were going to love today, it’s been absolutely gorgeous travelling along the west coast through Thy National Park stopping every 10-15mins to experience another treasure (thanks so much for the recommendation Anna).

We had an hour long walk along the breathtaking beach at Stenbjerg fossil hunting, marvelling at rock patterns others had made, watching the pups chase about and just loving life. Then on to Vorupor for coffee and cake and a potter down their sea defence called Haubad, it’s creation has created a swimming pool separate from the sea and obviously kept the sand to one side – it’s a bit like Cromer.

Just 7mins on from there was the Thagaards Plantage which was a natural mixed forest leading to the sea. We were lucky to find a place to park as none designated and it meant the route we took was little walked and we saw nobody else. We had seen what we guess was a huge beacon at the top of a hill and so headed for that… As soon as I saw it I felt compelled to climb it. It was a surprisingly easy climb as I have super grippy thighs from pole class (thanks Holly πŸ˜‚) and it certainly got my heart racing with the adrenaline. Mark was stood at the bottom advising against because…safety…dress…but I do like a challenge and it was fine, plus a great view!

We had a picnic lunch with the dogs outside then drove on Klitmoller which is otherwise known as Cold Hawaii and has masses of surf schools and surf shops. Sadly today the waves weren’t up so most were lying on their boards and we only saw one person surf a single wave.

Having missed the bunkers on the way to RΓΈmΓΈ we were spoilt in the afternoon with 19 at Hanstholm. I went inside a few on my own and they are quite dark and creepy. I honestly expected more graffiti but there was hardly any, though I suppose it is in the middle of nowhere. The bunker museum has some huge weaponry and it’s so strange to think of people living and working within both the large and small bunkers dotting along the coast. I personally preferred exploring the ruined bunkers just outside of Hanstholm than the official museum’s grounds.

On next to more ruined bunkers on Olsen beach…again there were dozens some of which had been partly consumed by the sea. These were much less ominous is presence, partly because of children playing on and around them but also there was some light-hearted graffiti on them… Jasper almost got eaten by a bunker whale and another bunker monster was after Mabel πŸ˜‚πŸΎ (Ernest was already on the lead for trying to steal a child’s ice cream πŸ™ˆ)

As the Saturday tradition dictates pizza for dinner we drove on in search of such delights. The best Google reviews were given to Amigo’s in Kaas… It was average nothing special but it was on the way to tomorrows doggy surprise another beach. We have parked up ready to hike to Rubjerg Knude Fyr ( the disappearing lighthouse) tomorrow morning. Is it daft I’m keeping it a surprise for the dogs… Mabel just loves the beach and had rolled on 4 today β€οΈ I really hope they are living their best life, I feel we are.

Oh and just remembered, I gave myself purple highlights for the eagle-eyed amongst you that spot it πŸ˜„πŸ’œ

Day 39 – On the road again

Journey: RΓΈmΓΈ – Rima – Varde – Skjern Enge – Holstebro – near Snedsted

I’d set the alarm early, keen for us to be back on the beach at 7am to make the most of midsummers day. While Jasper and Ernest played outside, we sat eating porridge watching the world go by, it was so lovely…until Jasper buggered off for a wander to see another dog and wouldn’t come back. 

If doing a trip like this I strongly recommend you train your pups in recall and heel walking. We got a trainer in for Jasper before we left as he is seemingly having a mid life rebellion and suffering selective hearing…he is good 80% of the time, the rest of the time he is as bad as Ernest. The only positives I can think are that we get good arm resistance training by constantly calling them to heel and everyone knows we are English as we talk to pups all the time. We are however concerned Ernest may think his name is No…as he hasn’t linked it to not trying to eat everything that moves, pulling, play fighting, and generally being a cute but sometimes annoying bitey little arse (I love him to bits, Mark pretends to hate him). 

Talking of naughty pups – Mabel had me in a panic this morning as she was walking with a distinct limp on the beach and I was already researching vets and dog prams imagining her having pulled a muscle and requiring weeks of rest. It was her leg which has her first wart on it so I even panicked it might be an evil wart…anyway it wasn’t hurting her to touch it and she was happy waddling about so we cut short the walk and let her rest it. Mark persuaded me to wait a day to see how it was, and by lunchtime she was running around as normal. I have a suspicion she may have put it on to try and stay in bed longer…or maybe she just slept on it funny πŸ€”

After stopping for traditional Danish apple cake (delicious!) and coffee at the RΓΈmΓΈ museum we drove on to Ribe which is the oldest town in Denmark. Mabel and Jasper rested in the van with a wonky chomp while we walked about with Ernest. I drooled at the pastry shop window and inevitably bought one. It’s a quaint town, picture postcard with cobbled streets and painted houses of slightly different styles. They also had some monastery ruins, 4 pizza parlours (I have to wait for Saturday to uphold tradition), lake inlets and a harbour where they used to put on spikes the decapitated heads of pirates and ne-er-do-well folk…

Thinking Mabel’s leg was sore we opted to take the scenic drive up route 11 west coast stopping whenever Mark found something interesting. This worked really well. At Varde we walked the pups around a lovely park (realised Mabel was fine) and saw the miniture town, stopped by a gorgeous meadow walk at Skjern and saw dozens of butterflies and tiny orchids, next stop was a strange sculpture in Holstebro and a walk around the town before heading north where the land became more wild and beautiful. 

Journey wise there are wind turbines of every type which Mark enjoyed spotting and commenting on, and funky old bunkers at Studzpunktgruppe Odesund but sadly I couldn’t park up in time to wander them (I’ve found some more to hopefully explore), the churches and homes in general are immaculate… everything is so neat and tidy, and the roads are a dream.

We found a lay-by with picnic table at a strange little grotto/rockery. I’m not sure if it’s a very old burial or memorial garden but it’s filled with little rock arches/inscribed stones/old rock tables/paths/mini painted church and houses. The sign outside is from Google translate relating to cheer and joy praising the lord. It’s interesting to explore and try to fathom it out. While distinctly cooler today we had our first dinner outdoors with the pups. It’s been another lovely day

Day 38 – The land of hygge

Journey – Kiel – RΓΈmΓΈ Denmark

Time is an odd concept. Traveling for a year we have so much of it and no fixed route so in theory don’t want to rush and instead give each place it’s due. However Mark and I have been pondering Denmark for a few days…since Bremen I have been keen to just drive on, but Mark preferred to visit a few more places…after Lubeck places that were nice but in honesty nothing special. He said he felt we were rushing if we left Germany too soon…but counter to that Kiel didn’t offer much more than a cafe, a harbour and a church…if it was local to Norwich we wouldn’t visit it. He had to concede, if the German tourism website says there isn’t much to see beyond Lubeck…then let’s just enjoy the drive and head to Denmark.

In fairness to Kiel it served yummy apple cake, had a secondhand book shop with a few English books and had free parking which enabled me to sit and plan our Denmark route – thinking we will be here for 3 weeks πŸ™‚πŸ‡©πŸ‡°

Crossing the border we headed to RΓΈmΓΈ island which is a nature reserve. It’s only small and we have driven in every direction as far as we can go. Firstly south to give the pups a quick run on a little shell beach, and then the highlight…we had read it was possible to drive on to the main beach on the west of the island. Mark was panicked we would get stuck but I spotted a few other campers parked so braved it and I’m so glad we did…it was amazing! In scale the beach felt like Holkham and was pristine. The pups loved it! We aren’t allowed to camp there overnight (you have to be on a designated site) but we will definitely take them back tomorrow morning.

Now for some hygee…curled up with the pups, a book and hot chocolate… I’m already liking Denmark

Day 37 – Seaside Thunderstorms

Journey – Random wood – Lubeck – Timmendorfer – lay-by near Kiel

Funnily enough without a salad incentive Ernest has forgotten how to jump on the bed. His mouth net proved semi useful though as he tried to catch mozzies somewhat successfully in the night, didn’t stop us getting quite a few bites πŸ™ˆ

Took the pups on a lovely meadow/wood walk…still no sign of wild boar but they are around and Mabel’s nose often goes into overdrive.

Lubeck was our main stop of the day and another lovely city on an island with lots of architecture, parks and lakes. With temperatures in high 20s we are constantly thinking about keeping the dogs cool. Fortunately there were lots of fountains for the dogs to walk through, cafe and shops with water bowls and gorgeous city parks. After a cafe lunch at Kaffee Haus we lounged around in one of the city parks, and then pottered about until we found the van again.

Thinking it might be cooler by the sea we drove on to Timmendorfer…we weren’t wrong. Having walked a mile to the dog beach, we were there around 15 minutes before a torrential thunderstorm hit and we got absolutely drenched. The pups were not impressed but it was still fun and brightened up almost instantly after the downpour which helped us dry off a bit on our walk back. Ernest was super brave prancing through the waves like a dressage horse… for a dog who doesn’t like water he embraced fountains, the sea, hailstones and torrential rain…the latter being his least favourite.

From there we headed towards Kiel and opted to stay in a lay-by en route…cue second thunderstorm which at least freshened the air and seemingly emboldened the mozzies to come out…you can play dot-to-dot with the number of bites I have πŸ™ˆπŸ˜‚

(Apologies videos have loaded in odd order)

Day 36 – What dog steals salad?

Journey: Hamberg – Schwerin – ? random field near Gross Gronau

We are continuing our Coddiwomple (love that word) and drove to Schwerin which has the most stunning fairytale castle. My photo really doesn’t do it justice. It’s on its on island and glistens golden in the light β€οΈ The town itself is well manicured, perfectly presentable and serves epic iced coffee which was just as well as it was another scorching day (sorry UK readers πŸ™ˆ)

We sat by the lake, the dogs took shade and we read our books, had iced coffee and pottered about. I should have taken more photos but it was all just lovely. 

Almost forgot we had initially parked up and while Mark did a quick doggy wee walk I made salad for lunch. Upon returning it turns out I had to repark around the corner as was in residents only area. Thinking the centre of the bed was the least likely place for our plates of salad to fall off, that’s where I put them. Turns out the same puppy that asks to be lifted onto the bed every morning decided to help himself and when I parked and turned around he was scoffing both plates of salad! Cucumber/tomato/pickle/lettuce/hummus… seriously what dog steals salad? Jasper and Mabel hadn’t given it a second thought but Ernest will eat anything πŸ™ˆπŸ˜‚

From there to Rewe which is their version of Sainsbury’s we did a major stock up of food. Mark even found raisins (he has been having withdrawal symptoms and substituting cranberries).

Our next stop was going to be LeBeck but rather than a carpark campsite, we found a nice wood and parked up. It was a bit messy with litter so I did a quick litter pick and it makes such a difference. The pups evening walk was through lovely farm fields, where we saw a huge queen bee and dozens of butterflies all of which Ernest was sure he could catch with his jumping mouth net πŸ™ˆπŸ˜‚

After a late night last night I’m thinking bed, book and hot chocolate πŸ˜Š

Day 35 – Sheep road blocks and city traffic

Journey: Moorwerder – Hamburg

It was due to be a scorcher today so we took the pups for an early walk to a little beacon called Bunthauser Spitz before driving to Hamburg…with a slight hold up while sheep crossed the road β€οΈπŸ‘

Today was the first time we had to refill our LPG…in true Crutchley style we made a complete hash of it. We tried each of our adapters, got sprayed by gas multiple times…asked for help, only for the attendant to struggle, try a different pump, go back to the first pump and it magically work…oh and then we drove off leaving the cap behind πŸ™ˆ

[Rant alert] Having not learnt from previous city trips, Mark had me driving to an unknown place with no known parking. Despite him seemingly spending two evenings researching Hamburg. What actually happened was I researched it in a fraction of the time by asking a friend who had been/googling/checking forums and writing things down, made a suggestion based on facts, to which he said no and instead made a general stab in the dark by saying fishmarket…I got grumpy and had to Google fishmarket parking and hope it wasn’t barriered and had sufficient space for a motorhome. Thus when finally parked (on third attempt) I was stressed and in a foul mood. I was a right mare and seriously considered exploring Hamburg on my own. 24/7 for over a month with anyone is too long…on the plus it’s tempting me into running again…if only to save my sanity. (I liked him again by mid afternoon πŸ˜‚).

Anyway we stomped about the harbour area, Elbe tunnel, saw the cathedral…then Mark said he had lost the map…he hadn’t, he had left it in van and I’d picked it up and been an arse and not told him, instead waiting to see how long it would take him to mention it was ‘lost’ #pettyiknow

We took the pups to the Planten un Blumen to seek shade under a tree then treated them to a Subwoofer doggy beer (non alcoholic) at Brewdog. They were so focused on the doggies order, they forgot ours so the dogs got a free doggy beer when our drinks finally came πŸ˜‚

We then walked down the red light district… If I continue to be a grumpy old goat, Mark might pimp me out to one of the various sex palaces…Β JennyΒ I need a crash course in sexyΒ πŸ˜‚Β For a dog who is bum obsessed, Jasper was not remotely interested in my “bumday” poseΒ πŸ˜†Β I did feel sorry for a young girl when I saw her being asked by her parents to wait outside while they went in the sex shop…ah great yeah that’s fine I will just look at the dildos in the window and pray that’s not what you are buyingΒ πŸ˜‚πŸ™ˆΒ #birdsbeesanddildos

From there we went back to the van via the fish market and drive out to the posh bit called Blankense..we drove around for ages looking for parking before conceding they had managed to keep the riff raff out and driving to on to Karolinenstrasse….where we continued to drive around desperately looking for parking. After 2 hours we finally found a spot…the bright side of this is that we have seen lots of Hamburg many tourists haven’t and I can now tell you where the road works are and how much fun it is driving through them at rush hour in circles πŸ™ˆ oh and an ambulance added to the fun. I’m getting good at this driving abroad malarky.

Karolinenstrasse is great, lots of boho, local designers and graffiti. As a general rule the higher the density of graffiti the more I tend to like a place. We found a great cafe, a gorgeous dog poster I need but can’t have, a funky bike mechanic making all sorts of wierd bikes and a restaurant (Erikass Eik) that had been recommended but sadly had no veggie option.

We were really unsure whether to spend the evening here but opted to and after some light exercise and fun on a park pole we ultimately saw a lovely water and light show at Planten un Blumen and then had a gorgeous cocktail at Clockers secret bar (they had a black lab and whisky cocktails I was in heaven! – thanks Mia)

Day 34 – Being open

Journey: Bremen – Moorwerder (near Hamburg)

I really felt like a lazy day today and I wasn’t out of bed much before 10. Ernest still had oodles of energy so I decided to take him on a short run (since found out he is much too young so musnt until he is fully grown 1-2yrs old). Still after initially jogging with a Tigger type lead grabbing pup he got into a nice flow and we found Burgerpark and had a lovely jog. 

There were lots of runners of all ages..too many for it to be a coincidence so I asked a passing lady. Ulrike was so friendly, and told me it was a charity run for a local family that had come on hard times. She and the group invited me to join them for a drink at a local park restaurant where friends were playing live music, so I picked up Mark and the other pups and had a wonderful time chatting, listening to the band and making new connections. Just that one question to a stranger shaped our whole day and it was so nice πŸ˜Š I love being open and talking to people.

Rather than pushing all the way to Hamburg we opted for a nice campsite part way, did the van chores, had a two hour nap and showered. The only drawback was Mark asking me to get a tick off his bum πŸ™ˆπŸ˜‚ (they are really bad here, picking dozens of Jasper and Ernest every day. Mabel and I are seemingly too gross to live on)

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started