SofaWolves

Day 22 – Sore feet and sculptures

Journey: Amsterdam – Nieuwer Ter Aa (near Utrecht)

Our final day in Amsterdam and we opted for a free sculpture trail that took us to a new part of the city (we have loved the museums but they soon add up). By the time we got back we had walked 12 miles and were knackered. Quite early on I got hungry and moany, and we couldn’t find a cafe…so Markles ignored me until I was fed and a nice person again…we really must pack protein bars for our walks. Lots of great sculptures though and it was fun exploring. We rushed back to catch the water taxi but it had broken down so that added another walk to a new area to catch a different boat, which was a sort of bonus.

After lunch we took the pups on a graffiti trail, Jasper was too cool for school, Mabel was wondering why she couldn’t observe the graffiti from the van sofa and Ernest is such a lump now 😂 And when we got back the parking officers had just given us a ticket – despite walking up and down the street several times neither of us had spotted the no motorhome sign 🙈

We drove part way to Utrecht and found a lovely proper campsite on a farm, and the pups have met a really friendly pig, chickens, rabbits and sheep. They had a mad run around and Jasper went in the lake, and then joy of joys the showers were untimed so my skanky body had a lovely long shower and I feel squeaky clean for the first time in ages. Turns out it wasn’t all dirt…I actually have tan lines on my feet 😂 Currently sitting in bed with a bar of chocolate having a girly pamper, feeling rejuvenated.

Day 21 – Swinging around

Journey: Amsterdam

Another up and organised morning, and much cooler today and thus nicer for the pups. After their walk, fueled by coffee we strolled to the Van Gogh museum – I adore his work and found it such a calming place to be. The true colours of his paintings are also much brighter than I ever realised.

From there to the Moto museum, which although a complete contrast to VG was equally brilliant with lots of banksy, kusama, koons and warhol. Mark and I also posed on a giant rocking horse – watching Mark climb up was hilarious…it didn’t cross his mind to use the stirrups 😂

After a brief walk through Volderpark to see Volderbunk (a community music venue), we came home via the floating flower market, walked the pups and I duly fell asleep for over an hour…one late night and I’m buggered lol.

Mark had been unsure about going to Bodyworks but it was fascinating, I read every post in there and seeing the body in such detail was breathtaking. It was also very positive, as they are studying happiness and it confirmed that only 10% is down to circumstances…the rest is genetic or how we choose to frame our mind. Playing on the indoor swing and watching a laughing yoga class certainly put a smile on our faces.

Then the bit I’d half been dreading…the free body assessment. Turns out Mark has lost half a stone and I’m the same weight as when we left – despite walking 86miles last week my rediculous overconsumption of all things yummy has fortunately been balanced out 😂 Will be interesting to see where we are at in a years time 🙈

While Markles went to the supermarket I walked the pups, found a new park, some funky decorated bikes, and cooked dinner which had enough garlic in it to kill any vampires in Europe (I love garlic!).

I’ve been pestering since I first saw it from the water taxi that we should go on Europe’s highest swing…Mark wasn’t having any of it, so off I went on my tod. While I confess it’s blatantly an overpriced money spinner, the rooftop bar and views were lovely and it was a fun if very short ride on the swing. I’m glad I did it and huge thanks to the stranger who took cash in exchange for paying for me when I realised they only accept card payment and my new card is still in the UK.

Far from my original thought that I wasn’t too sure about Amsterdam, we are staying another night and have more planned for tomorrow ☺️. No doubt we will be woken extra early as Ernest has just realised he is big enough to jump on the bed 🙈

Day 20 – Pancakes, Park & Culture

Journey: Amsterdam

Yay Amsterdam I love you! The pups were cuddling and enjoyed their morning walk. Then we caught the water taxi to the centre to see the Rembrandt exhibition at Rijksmuseum – he really was a true master! So many wonderful things to see.

Today has been made extra special by the recommendations given. Mia Carmen Reeves I want to live at De Carrosel those Dutch pancakes were divine! I was so full I didn’t think about food for 4 hours 😋 #miracle

As it was due to be a scorching day 31 degrees, we went back to the pups and took them to a lovely cafe De Ceuvel where they got lots of food and love from strangers. We then whiled away the afternoon in a park so doggies could shelter in the shade and I could practice my handstands and waste a lot of time trying to set up travel blog website – Facebook is much easier and free. The dogs do now have their own Instagram @sofawolves if you want to follow.

It was still warm early evening and Ernest likes to hide under the van so I sunbathed in a carpark so I could keep an eye on him.

Having not seen Amsterdam at night we ventured out to a gorgeous speak easy bar recommended by Deborah Davies – literally a plain door, if you didn’t know it was there you wouldn’t find it. The cocktails were delicious, I had two which meant I had the tipsy nibbles and needed fries and majo (our first time!) from Vegan Junk Food… Mark might have teased me but stole a few 😋 We then walked back through the red light district to see the ladies at work, I was surprised it was still so busy on a Sunday night.

It definitely helps that we have walked miles and gone off the tourist route a bit, but there is something for everyone here

Day 19 – Hmm Amsterdam I’m not sure what to make of you

Journey: Volendam – Amsterdam

After an early morning walk we set off for Amsterdam. We were super lucky and found free parking at a cool place near the NDSM center (live music, art collective, warehouses, great food). We then caught the free water taxi to Amsterdam centre.

I was really expecting to love Amsterdam but it’s taken me all day to warm to the place and that’s only as a result of leaving the main tourist area and finding a pizza comparable to Brick. I really don’t like hoards of people and get nervous around drunk people, both are here. Rather than going straight to the museum’s we wanted to potter about and get a sense of the place. We saw a few key pieces of architecture, strolled around The 9 Streets, saw The Grasshopper, a condomerie which every possible condom flavour/size/pattern you could ever want, and had a stroll around the red light district.

We came home for lunch and as it was very warm opted to walk the pups around NDSM and saw a Barbie doll peep show – whatever your brain comes up with is likely better than what we saw 😜, and then read our books and napped. Festi Festival is taking place here so we have free live music until 4am 😂🙈

We went back into the city to the sex museum which confirmed people have been at it for centuries and took ‘rude’ photos even in the olden days. Fortunately for you guys I had forgotten my phone all afternoon so you are spared the photos of 6ft penises and terrible mannequins. Much more interesting was the Red Light Secrets prostitute museum, learnt lots of interesting facts and would recommend.

Saturday has become our pizza night and Markles found the best in Amsterdam – I will happily walk miles for pizza and this was delicious! It also took us of the beaten track to a much calmer part of town and we saw the flourescent light museum with very psychedelic artwork and a cool jungle gym which had I not been stuffed would have attempted to play on.

It’s getting close to our normal bed time but it’s sort of when Amsterdam comes alive so we are undecided whether to go out again to a bar and brave the red light district…🤔

Day 18 – Mark hates the Dutch Disneyland

Journey: Haarlem – Hilligom – Zaanse Schans – Edam – Volendam

First mission of the day was to get the door fixed. I’d found a motorhome place near Hilligom and they kindly fixed it relatively easily, we then mentioned our tap that had fallen off and realised that the waste water tank had dropped, causing the tap to likely hit a speed bump – so that was our third bit of bad luck and €314 later that was fixed to 🙈

While they were working on the van we walked into Hilligom and past the time at a lovely cafe, park and getting my eyebrows done – it’s a little luxury I can’t do without, I hate doing them myself. I’ve got a rediculously low pain threshold and yet have decided I want a small tattoo…will see if I’m brave enough!

I’m mainly in charge of the itinerary and Zaanse Schans was recommended as a nice place to see windmills. Mark hated it! It was basically Disney’s version of Dutch village and mills…clogs, watch museum, people dressed up playing music and hundreds of tourists packed into a small space following each other round the circuit. We got the gist then left. The real side of the town is actually very nice and smells divinely of chocolate 🤤

Next to Edam to get our cheese fix… I’m honestly treating this like a food tour…at some point I must stop eating everything 😂 There was very little in the town but it was a nice place to potter and test cheese samples (pesto flavour and smoked jalapeno flavour are both yummy).

The neighboring town is Volendam and is known for its wonderful marina… except we went to the wrong one and thought the place was overhyped…and then we found the second marina and agreed it’s a lovely place to potter. Mabel sunbathed on the beach and even let a few tourists pet her and take her photo 😊

We are well ahead of schedule so will likely go into Amsterdam tomorrow and perhaps stay there longer than planned

Day 17 – Problems usually come in three’s so we are waiting for the third

Journey: Kinderdijk – Delft – The Hague – Zaandvoort – Haarlem

Our natural contraception is working well and we woke up to Ernest’s balls near our faces 😂🙈 It was a wet and windy morning so I lazed about with Mabel in bed until I spotted a chap in the park setting up a fitness class. Typical me toodles over and asks to join in…rookie mistake always ask what the class is before you sign up! 10 exercise sets of tabata and a countdown 9-1 of two exercises later and I was knackered. Still it’s his new business, I really enjoyed it, and I got to listen to a friendly group chatting in dutch. Meanwhile Mark walked the pups then watched me from the comfort of the van.

It was Ascension Day so a sort of bank holiday and the fitness group had warned me everything in Delft would likely be closed. We decided to drive on over anyway for a quiet potter – turns out it was race day! Three race events were taking place throughout the day, it was heaving and lots of the roads blocked off for runners. I really wanted to join in and asked the HQ but all spots were taken. It’s made me Google races in other town we are visiting just in case as that would be a great way of exploring a new place.

Delft itself was gorgeous, just a maze of canals and little streets, cafes and boutiques. Definitely a nice place to while away the day. With it being race day though it was difficult to get about especially with the doggies so we drove on to The Hague. Apart from a small area of historical architecture, The Hague is dull, just a clone shopping town. You really wouldn’t have noticed if you’d been teleported to Oxford Street.

Markles fancied going to the beach so after a quick scan of the map we plumped for Zaandvoort…there are some huge houses that put Newmarket to shame! To save money we have been wild camping unless we need services, I’m afraid in this case my inner cheap skate got the better of me as they don’t allow parking except for in a designated area which was €22 (with no services provided), and thus we only looked at the sea as we drove past, and are yet again hiding in a carpark.

It was here we discovered our side door won’t unlock. Fortunately we could escape through the driver/passenger door but it’s not convenient with the pups. After googling I discover it’s a common fault with swift moterhomes and annoyingly expensive to fix, so I spend the best part of two hours, trying to prize various bits of the door panel off, unscrew and rescrew bits all to no avail (we have three screwdrivers and the butter knife was the only thing that fitted). So tomorrow it’s off to a dealership to see if they can fix…and while they are at it we have lost the tap off our waste water tank 🙈

Ah well it all adds to the adventure 😊

Day 16 – Architecture both old and new

Journey: Kinderdijk – Rotterdam – Kinderdijk

What a gorgeous day! Jasper was feeling quite a bit better and is on 6 small meals a day, which means the other two are getting extra sweets so they don’t feel left out #silverliningforthem

To give Jasper a rest after a family walk around the town we opted to take only Ernest to Kinderdijk as Jasper wasn’t up to the walk and Mabel prefers the sofa. It’s a UNESCO heritage site and beautiful seeing all the old mills which are still lived in (thanks for recommending Diane!). Ernest met horses, sheep and coots…he just loves everything and anything, perhaps a little too much as he darted to see a bird and I slipped down a grass bank almost falling in the river – it would have been funny, but was glad Mark caught me 😂

We then did the chores, walked all the pups together again and caught the water taxi to Rotterdam. Another example of how a supposedly intelligent person can also be an idiot…I was half reading the ferry toilet instructions (🙈 it wasn’t obvious) and saw it said something about flush on the right…so it was a bit dark and I saw what I thought was a lever, pulled it and it was actually a toilet brush which I’d then broken and tipped the water out of all over the floor…it was when I was tidying up I saw the flush button on the right of the toilet base…I honestly don’t know how I make it through the day 😂 #calamitycase

I’ve heard there are only 4 old streets left in Rotterdam as it got so heavily bombed in the war and thus its a very modern city. Our eyes were constantly darting around as there is so much amazing modern architecture, art and sculpture. It’s a great city to walk around, even the tarmac was sparkly new. We also found a yellow walkway which was crowdfunded to give people an aerial view of the city.

Once back at kinderdijk I’d moved the van to a lovely new campspot (still a carpark but next to a park), so we enjoyed a nice walk, I tried some exercising and attempted the window wiper pole exercise I’ve seen Holly do, but had forgotten how to do the pole flip and most of my calisthenics #sievebrain. This was our first wild swimming opportunity and of course I had to do it – yes it was cold but so refreshing 😃

We haven’t made our minds up whether to stay or drive on after dinner…

Day 15 – Poorly Baby

Journey: Domburg – Vlissigen – Veere – Delta Works – Kinderdijk (91 miles)

When Mark first suggested this idea to campervan around Europe for a year I thought he was both mad and joking… But then said well we would need to do it before the dogs get too old so they can make the most of it. Jasper is 8 and sometimes acts older than his years, Mabel will outlive us all as she is to stubborn to die and Ernest will likely die as a result of his own stupidity. We are obviously trying to keep all three going as long as possible (forever 🤞).

Jasper has been very unwell again today – he was up 3 times in the night, which meant Markles going out in a thunderstorm and it was pouring with rain all morning so no beach walk, instead a gentle stroll around Domburg and a pop into Dogsmolitan (a posh dog shop) for some overpriced dog sausages and an opportunity for Ernest to befriend a dog statue…he can’t tell the difference and befriends all statues or anything at his eye level.

Jasper couldn’t bring himself to eat breakfast or lunch so we spent the morning just resting with him and managed to find a vet in Vlissigen. While waiting for the vet we did our laundry and I read my book…we couldn’t really focus on anything else. The vet was lovely and has given him probiotics and we have bought him special food so hoping that helps. We also changed the dogs on to bottled water when we started living in the van as the general consensus is not to drink the tank water (and yet they still like puddle water 🙈).

The vet assured us it wasn’t travel sickness so we drove onto Veere which is a bit like Southwold. Quite quaint and posh but not as dog friendly as Domburg. A small detail – I love that the houses are so neat and homeowners have their family name painted in beautiful handwriting on their front doors. At the park Mabel was tasked with entertaining Ernest… except she is a rescue dog and doesn’t know how to play nicely so it just looks like Ernest is getting mauled. They both had fun though and all three fell asleep on the way to kinderdijk.

Maddy had recommended we see the Delta Works which true to her description are like the Thames barrier on steroids… we actually drove over them en route. It’s very hard to get a picture or illustrate the scale so best to Google. We arrived at our campsite – a carpark with facilities and I resumed my hatred of campsite showers! This one you had to pay for hot water which I didn’t know so was pottering about in my towel testing freezing showers until I got redressed and asked reception. For a euro you get 5mins but no timer and you waste the first minute scalding yourself or freezing your arse off which you work out a manageable temperature. It is possible for me to wash my hair, body and shave in 4mins but I’d love longer…oh to have a power shower and just live in it for 15minutes… anyway that ain’t happening any time soon so I trudge back to the van with damp hair and inform mark I’ve used the last euro and the machine doesn’t take cents so he will have to smell until the morning 😂

Kinderdijk opens at 10am tomorrow so we best be up and organised ready to explore.

Day 14 – Traffic jams make for good wee stops

Journey: Opglabbeek – Antwerp – Middleburg – Domburg (97 miles)

Had such a lovely nights sleep. In the morning I always ask the hubby what is like outside while I’m half dressed as I have a tendency to be optimistic then add hoody and coat when reality hits home. He said it’s nice but obviously very wet… Turns out I slept through very heavy rain… Honestly I can sleep through anything…Mark can’t.

The campsite joins the nature reserve so we opted for one of their loop trails not paying due notice to the distance and ended up doing 7km through beautiful meadows and woodland. My feet had a wash as I was wearing sandles…except then the path got muddy so I was just as mucky as the dogs and had to wash my feet in the sink when I got home (should I consider myself lucky… Mark makes the dogs wait outside while he dries their feet… didn’t offer to do mine 😜)

We then drove on to Antwerp…the completest in me wanted to finish Belgium and it’s a nice city, but not as good as others we have been to. Getting there Mark did his first stint of European driving – about 100metres so I could dash to the loo during a traffic jam 😂 Parking was also a joy, driving in endless circles, almost giving up then plumping for a spot. As I’m getting better with driving, Mark is becoming a whizz with all the various parking meters.

Antwerp is seemingly home to all the diamonds…I have never seen so many diamonds in my life! Whole streets where every shop was a jewellers. Diamonds are my birth stone and in the past I’ve bought myself some lovely pieces… however van life…living in a van really does cut down your consumption or need for stuff….no I suppose I don’t NEED the stunning diamond drop earrings for wearing while sweeping dog fluff and mud off the van floor 😂 My favourite sculpture was a child sleeping with a dog gifted by China as a thank you for aiding their diamond trade.

Meanwhile Mark spotted a funky wooden bike shop and the owner let him have a go…cue Markles cycling straight onto the wrong side of the road 🙈 The owner just laughed and said don’t worry we are in Belgium we are used to it. He came back in one piece, oblivious but excited by the bike. The owner invited us to stay at the factories house in Greece…may well take him up on that!

Next stop the Netherlands… This is the part I’ve most been looking forward to. I’ve had so many recommendations and heard such lovely things. Or first stop was Middleburg which is a quaint town with lovely little shops and architecture. Took all three into a pet shop to get Mabel a bed as she is the least settled when driving and while she wants to be on the sofa it’s not safe, so now the floor will be comfy. Great tip.. don’t take a food obsessed puppy into a pet shop…while Mabel can contain herself, Ernest cannot. He was desperate to get to the sweets, tied me and the other two pups up, I fell backwards and knocked a load of boxes of a shelf. Funnily enough after that I waited outside with the pups until Mark had finished paying 🙈 Despite this we even braved eating out in a main square which we have previously never done because Ernest is obsessed with pigeons and despite them being able to fly expresses a deep desire to befriend them all. We have honestly lost count of the number of times we have said no…the training is ongoing and I’d like to say he is improving…

Mark had wondered how people knew we were English I pointed out it might be because we are constantly talking to our three pups saying: heel, come on Mabel, no, Ernest no, Jasper stop weeing on everything, Mabel no, Mabel stop grumbling, Mabel be friendly, Ernest leave it, Ernest you can’t play with that, No, please behave..it leaves very little opportunity to talk to each other 😂🙈 (in fairness to them they are generally very good, it’s just obviously very new and stimulating environments).

Our camp spot tonight is Domburg and the pups have a beach walk to look forward to tomorrow. I also found a company that lets you hire dog bikes (normal bike but with huge trailer cargo tub on the front for the dog to sit in). I saw a huge goldendoodle in one, it looks awesome. I’m trying to convince Mark the dogs would love it…he is envisioning carnage 😂I’ve emailed an enquiry so we will see…

Day 13 – Left Mabel in Holland…

Journey: Cologne (Germany) – Drielanderpunkt – Maastricht (Holland) – National Park Hoge Kempen – Opglabbeek (Belgium) (95 miles)

Up bright and early, turfed Ernest off the driving seat and headed to the three point where Germany, Belgium and Holland converge. Makes for some fun photos when each dog is in a different country and you can be in all three simultaneously 😊 Then did a lovely woodland walk, though the ticks were awful again.

Drove on to Maastricht which is a fashionistas dream! If you have style, a love of fashion and a sizable credit card limit then you could happily while away a weekend looking at all the lovely boutiques and enjoying the cafe culture. I’m living out of a van, with my ever growing puppy taking up our spare weight allowance so I lusted a little through the shop windows and then had bread and cheese in a carpark #highlife. We had met a gorgeous English bulldog earlier who was 45kilos… Mark shot me a look that said if this little monster turns into that you are in big trouble… fortunately I’m used to being in trouble so grow as big as you like Ernest 😂

We then took the pups back into Belgium to a national park where they had a mix of woods, grassland and sand to play in. Mabel loves sand and we hadn’t even got out of the carpark before she was rolling and filthy… Oh and she had rolled in poo again this morning so winning awards for the skankiest member of the family.

While I was keen to push on to Antwerp, Mark fancied staying locally so we found a lovely farmyard campsite which we have all to ourselves, have done all the chores and can now have a relaxing evening…to be honest it’s what we all need. Tonight I shall be planning the Holland part of our trip if anyone has any recommendations? Hoping to stay there quite a while.